Friday, November 20, 2015

Cremations, Taking on the Dowry and Getting to Know Buddha






Last weekend we went to Varanasi. Varanasi is a big city on the bank of the Ganges. The Ganges is the biggest river in India and one of the biggest in the world. Some say it's also the oldest city in the world. Friday was a travel day. First we took a train to Delhi where we waited for 6 hours. We went to a Starbucks in Delhi and everyone was super excited because they hadn’t been to one in a while. We then took a super short plane ride to Varanasi. We went to a restaurant to have dinner and then headed to our hotel. The next morning we got up really early while it was still dark to go on a sunrise cruise on the Ganges. Unfortunately, I woke up pretty sick. I had a bad headache and a very sore throat. We took a car part of the way from the hotel and walked the rest of the way. Surprisingly there were a lot of people out, and it wasn’t even 6:00 in the morning! It turns out the boat cruise wasn’t exactly a cruise. It was a ride in a rowboat. The sun was hidden behind the clouds too, but even though it wasn’t exactly what we expected, it was fun. After about an hour of being in the water, we went to see a temple. Our guide said that it was the most popular temple in India. We walked through crowded, narrow streets full of animal dung. A lot of people are cremated on the riverbank and the ashes are thrown in the water. When we were walking the narrow streets, we saw a dead body being carried past. For me, unlike everybody else, it wasn’t that overwhelming. My senses were at zero because I had a headache, sore throat, a runny nose, and I was dizzy and nauseous. For everyone else, it was kind of a shock. It turns out we couldn’t actually go into the temple but that was okay because we could see it from the outside, or so we thought. All we saw was the top of a dome made of gold.
We headed back to the hotel after that. We had breakfast, which was eggs and toast, and rested a little. Our hotel was pretty unpleasant. It was old, musty, and dark. So, we switched to another one. I think the new one was a lot better and more welcoming. Before lunch we went to the site where Siddhartha Gautama, the original Buddha, gave his teachings for the first time after being enlightened. First we went to his temple and learned about him and Buddhism; I’ll talk about that later. We also went to the ruins of the place where he spoke. The whole place was dedicated to Buddha. There was even a museum that we went in and learned some more. After a long time at the site we went to have dinner at the same place we did the night before.
The next day we relaxed until 10:00, when we went back to the Buddha site to see a giant statue of him that was closed the day before. We had lunch there and then started a city tour of Varanasi. We visited three temples, one about Mother India, a big Shiva temple, and a Durga temple. The first one, Mother India, wasn’t exactly the kind of temple that we were used to. It had a huge 3-D map of India etched in marble on the ground and some paintings of famous Indians. The Shiva temple was my personal favorite. It was located inside a university, actually the biggest university in India and the guide said the third biggest in the world. The temple was really big and beautiful. The thing that’s interesting about Hindu temples is that the outside is usually big and decorated, but the inside is just a plain small room. The Durga temple (Durga is Shiva’s wife) wasn’t that exciting. When the city tour ended we rode a Rickshaw (bikes with carts on the back) to the Ganges for a sunset cruise! Every evening the people of Varanasi have a ceremony of lights and there are about 10,000 people that gather every night. It is so crowded that it’s hard to move. There were 7 priests who lead the ceremony and tons of people following. We took another rowboat out on the water and went to see some cremations, but from a distance. There are a lot of bodies being burned each night and after one body is burned, another is brought in. It was really interesting how they do it. They stack sandwood and put the body under. They light the sandwood on fire and when the body burns, they throw the ashes into the river. It was a good experience, even though it was a little freaky and overwhelming. Varanasi wasn’t as fun and relaxing as Goa or Himachal. It wasn’t as pretty as the Taj Mahal. But I thought it was good in its own way.
Siddhartha Gautama was the main founder of Buddhism. He was a prince, the son of the king of a tribe called the Shakyas. His whole childhood and beyond, his father kept him secluded from the world, so he didn’t have to see the suffering in others. One day, when he was 29 he finally went out to see the world. He saw a very old man, a diseased man, and a decaying corpse. His charioteer explained that all men grow old, get sick, and die. The next day Siddhartha left the kingdom, and his wife and baby to lead an ascetic life. For six years he did that, but he was never quite satisfied. Finally he decided that he was going to sit under a tree until he found what he was looking for. That’s when he became Buddha, the awakened one. He went around teaching what he had learned to other people. He talked about the four noble truths and the eightfold path. The four noble truths are: life has suffering, there’s a cause to suffering, you can end suffering, and how you end suffering, which is the eightfold path. The eightfold path is right view, right intentions, right speech, right action, right livelihood, right effort, right mindfulness and right concentration. Buddha said that if you do these things you would end suffering. Buddhism is not like other religions where you worship a god or gods. Buddhism is more of a practice. I thought it was cool learning about a new religion, the 5th most practiced religion in the world.
If you remembered, the Young Dreamers and us had started a new community service project about child labor and the importance of education. We’re helping them keep kids in school until 12th grade. So here’s the update: we executed it! Let me explain. A couple meetings ago we decided we would have a community discussion, kind of like the one in the Elephant Village, to talk about education. We also decided that the Young Dreamers would lead the meeting. (They also pretty much led the project.) We would also have a pledge that people would sign that said they wouldn’t give or ask for a dowry. On Wednesday we went door to door asking people to come to our meeting. We had the meeting on Thursday at 4:00 and everything went as planned. At the beginning, I was getting nervous because nobody was coming, but at 4:05 the tent space started filling up. Harish, one of the Young Dreamers, opened up the meeting and introduced who was going to talk. We had four topics to touch on, the benefits of education, the importance of daily education through 12th grade, ending child labor, and the problems with the dowry. It was nice because one Young Dreamer talked for each topic and for some of them a parent talked also. For dowry, a dad and a mom talked! The dad went on and read the dowry pledge out loud in front of everybody, then he said that he completely agrees with it and that he would sign it, saying he will not offer or provide a dowry for his daughter. That was a huge risk on his part because a lot of people could be angered by his words and he depends on them to buy his vegetables every day. I thought it was really cool that he cared so much about this cause that he was willing to speak out loud against the dowry. After the meeting we asked people to line up and sign the pledge. We got 25 signatures! That was a huge success. Although we got 25 signatures, the biggest thing is that the Young Dreamers learned how to do a community service project almost all by themselves. Now when we leave they can continue doing projects on their own. So two projects in India, the first one was bigger than the second, but the second went deeper than the first. One thing that has been deeply engrained in my mind by participating in these projects is this: always take the first step, no matter how hard it seems, no matter how far away the goal is, take the first step and everything will fall into place. If you put your mind to something and try really hard to do it, amazing things will happen.
We leave for Guatemala on Wednesday so my next post will probably be from there. I’ll tell you all about our last few days in India.


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